🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.